All about cameras
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I've got a Canon 400D. These days I leave a Sigma 18-200 OS on the body - it's pretty good as an all-in-one lens - although once in a while I switch over to the Nifty Fifty.
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i use a d300 for big print shoots
and d2hs for events
/me eyeing the upcoming d3x, nikon better don't disappoint me with the pixel count!
i'm a camera idiot, so don't ask me about technicalities
i just want more pixels so i can do more editing and print bigger!
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D3X? KNN, kopi, you want to print the side of a HDB block, issit?
Ah well, I should talk - I'm leaning towards the 50D because of the 6.3 fps, but I might still be tempted to get 5D2 and go full-frame instead - getting a 70-200 2.8 IS next week so I'll have the glass in hand already.
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A little question here for those pros like kopi and gedanken. I just bought a Nikon 50mm f/1.8 prime lens. Very lightweight and sharp lens, with a very smooth focus ring action. But recently my lens received a little bump and the focus ring's action isn't that smooth anymore. Will there be any problems? Should I bring it to Nikon?
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Is the autofocus functioning properly? When you say that it's not so smooth anymore, is something the ring rubbing against the lens body or is it jamming?
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hey, got a qn to ask. I am pretty much interested in cameras but sadly do not have much experience in photography. Sld i go for a prosumer camera or rather a DSLR?
was thinking of getting Canon SX 10 IS but for the price it commands, maybe i can get a lower-end DSLR?
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Frankly, if you're starting out, you may as well go for the SX 10. It's got enough manual setting options so that you can play around and figure out if you want to get further into photography, and with 20X zoom, image stabilisation and a large aperture, you can ease into it with a camera that's very forgiving.
Be advised that when you're buying a DSLR, getting the camera body itself is the easy part - your troubles begin when you start looking at getting the right lenses. For example, the 400D with the kit lens was A$1250 when I got it, but within a week I got tired of the lens and got a Sigma 24-105 f/2.8-4, which could shoot at much lower light levels. Then came the 18-200 OS, the Nifty Fifty and the Sigma 10-20 for landscape photography. Now I'm pushing the 18-200's limits, it's time to get the 70-200, which at A$2240 costs almost twice the price of the camera itself , and I'm rushing to get it before the 20% price hike at the end of the month. The bottom line is that a "low-end" DSLR can be deceptive - it's the cost of the glass that'll hit you, and even a basic body will outperform a lot of lenses, as I've found with the 400D.
It's fine if you know you're going to make use of it, but until such time you may as well not jump in. I got started with the SX 10's great-grandaddy, the S1IS, played around with it for about two years, moved to the 400D, and I figure I'll be ready for full-frame some time in the next year.
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Originally posted by Gedanken:
Is the autofocus functioning properly? When you say that it's not so smooth anymore, is something the ring rubbing against the lens body or is it jamming?
The lens can support AF, but I'm using D60, so I have to manual focus myself. And I don't think the ring is rubbing against the lens body, but it's just not that smooth anymore, and there are weird noises when I shake the whole lens unit. =(
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Hmm - how hard was that bump, and what direction was it in? Also, have you switched off the AF? It may just be that you're moving the AF motor while you're turning the ring.
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Originally posted by Gedanken:
Hmm - how hard was that bump, and what direction was it in? Also, have you switched off the AF? It may just be that you're moving the AF motor while you're turning the ring.
I don't think it's the AF motor. It's a 50mm prime lens, no AF motor built-in. Haha. It's the screw kind of AF that works if your camera body has its own AF motor. Quite a hard knock, but not a drop.
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Oh bugger, I'm up waaay too late. I saw Nikon 50mm and immediately I thought of the new 1.4. Okay, now I'm up to speed.
I can't really see a hard knock doing a whole lot of damage - hell, I've seen zooms bounce down stairs and still work fine. If your aperture's working OK and you don't notice your image quality affected, I wouldn't be too concerned.
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Originally posted by Gedanken:
Oh bugger, I'm up waaay too late. I saw Nikon 50mm and immediately I thought of the new 1.4. Okay, now I'm up to speed.
I can't really see a hard knock doing a whole lot of damage - hell, I've seen zooms bounce down stairs and still work fine. If your aperture's working OK and you don't notice your image quality affected, I wouldn't be too concerned.
Yep, no problems with the aperture or sharpness of a image, so I guess it's fine?
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Yeah, as long as it's performing the job it's supposed to be performing, I wouldn't sweat it.
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all the highly skilled are here..
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Originally posted by Cool-gal:
all the highly skilled are here..
Excluding me.
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i always say
if it spoils
buy a new one!
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Never spoil leh?
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never spoil then no need to buy
BUT
can buy others
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Originally posted by Gedanken:
Oh bugger, I'm up waaay too late. I saw Nikon 50mm and immediately I thought of the new 1.4. Okay, now I'm up to speed.
I can't really see a hard knock doing a whole lot of damage - hell, I've seen zooms bounce down stairs and still work fine. If your aperture's working OK and you don't notice your image quality affected, I wouldn't be too concerned.
i had my 1000D roll off the top of my luggage bag together with the 75-300 USM zoom and it still works, except for the steinzeiser uv filter which cracked >< -
i use a tokina filter.
everything else will be settled in photoshop
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well got the 1000D anyway, for those who rmbed my camera dilemma :P
casual photography so yeah, didint need something so sophis.
using it with the original 18-55 for general usage, 75-300 for really far off shots
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A question here. I have a 50mm prime with 7-blade rounded edge aperture. I thought light sources will have 7 points. But my light sources always turn out having 14 points. It's too much, how do I make it only 7 points?
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Short answer? You can't. The number of points is twice the number of blades. When you have an even number of blades, it looks like the blade and point count is the same because the opposite points overlap and look like one instead of two.
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No wonder. But why 5-blades can produce only 5 points? 5 ain't even number isn't it?
Added: But maybe it's 6-points, I can't remember.
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Update - new toy:
Somewhere along the way a Canon 24-70 2.8L and a Sigma 10-20 4-5.6 joined the party as well.